In search of imprints of Buddhism: Pattisvaram

Since joined research I have been much attached to the Pattisvaram area because it had more number of Buddha statues. In Pattisvaram, near Gopinathaperumalkovil,  we saw two buddha statues during the earlier field study in a grove. Now, let us go to see the Buddha found in Muthumariamman temple. 

October 1993

That was the time when I registered for M.Phil. in Madurai Kamaraj University and started my research. I was at a confusion. From where to start my work? At that time Buddhism of Tamil (in Tamil) (1940) of Mayilai Seeni Venkatasamy helped me. In the book he records some places as having Buddha statues. In order to confirm whether the statues are found now, I went to so many places referred by him. Of those places, Pattisvaram is also one. 

Quoting epigraphical evidence, in his work, he says about the prevalence of a Buddha statue in a village amman temple in Pattisvaram. Instantly Pattisvaram Durga Temple came to my mind, as Pattisvaram was a place I frequented there and nearby places during my school holidays with my friends by walk and on bicycle. During those trips we used to talk about the Palace of Palayaarai that might have existed there, Vandhiyathevan the hero of Kalki's Ponniyinselvan might have been gone on his horse through this route. We had been there many times. 

October  1995

During my trip there I called my friends, sculptor Rajasekaran of Kumbakonam and Nagarajan of Darasuram. Alongwith them first I went to Durga Temple of Pattisvaram and searched all the places in and around the shrine. No Buddha was found. I enquired the temple staff. They replied me that no such statues were found there. As the the shrine of Durga is situated in the campus of Denupurisvarar temple, I went on searching there with the help of my friends. After circumambulating the Dwajasthamba Vinayaka, I searched near the temple tank known Gnanavavi and the nearby Ganapathyshrine. No trace is found. Then I went inside the Denupurisvarar temple and searched all the places including mahamandapam, arthamandapam and prakara. I enquired the priests.  One person said, "You just told that as  Mayilai Seeni Venkatasamy referred the village devata temple and you checked around the shrine of Durga. Have you seen in the shrine of Gnanambikai shrine situated in this Siva temple?". I went there and saw the shrine and the prakara. Nothing is found. I came out and once again searched Depurisvarar temple. No Buddha state was found. I enquired others. and came to know that there was no such Buddhas. As I had to submit my dissertation in October 1995 in the University, and in spite of my search I could not get any trace, I recorded,  "Mayilai Seei Venkatasamy says that there is a Buddha statue in the Village devata temple. But there was no Buddha statues there."

After getting M.Phil., I registered for my doctorate in Tamil University, Thanjavur. I started to continue my field study and search for Buddha statues. I went to the places which were not covered fully.  I went to all the temples in and around Pattisvaram searching for the temple which was referred by Mayilai Seeni Venkatasamy. I also asked my friends and other scholars. One one such occasion Dr Kudavayil Balasubramanian informed me that there was a Buddha statue in a Mariamman temple in the Pattisvaram-Avoor road. Though he told me about this earlier, I did not take note of it properly and I did not think about the statue. I planned to Pattisvaram during the next holidays. 

October 1998

From Thanjavur I went to Pattisvaram by us and walked through the Govindakkudi road. First, I saw a Draupati Amman Temple. No Buddha statue was found there. Then I went to the nearby Muthumariamman Temple. In the right side of temple premises I saw a Buddha statue alongwith other statues. When I wanted to take photograph a resident of the area came near to me and asked, "Who are you? No photograph should be taken here."  When I was informing him about my research, many people came there. In spite of my request and showing relevant papers pertaining to my study they did not allow to take photograph.  After confirming that it was a Buddha, I left. Later I went there many times and returned. Many villagers came to know of me during these trips. Mr Veeramani, the driver working in Tamil University, who was also a native of Pattisvaram helped me. He introduced me to the villagers. Then they started to help me.  

      

With their help, I phtographed the Buddha. The image is of 2' height and the iconographical features such as upper garment, curly hair in rows surmounted by flame-like ushnisha, half closed eyes, elongated ear-lobes and tilak mark on the forehead. Though many of the locals did not know that it was Buddha, they worshipped it alongwith other deities.  In my Ph.D. thesis I recorded the prevalence of Buddha statue, quoting Mayilai Seeni. Venkatasamy. 

 

March 2009

As I wanted to see the Buddhas, which I saw during my earlier field work. Accompanied by my friend Rajasekaran, who helped me previously, again I went to Muthumariamman Temple. Buddha was not found in the place where I saw earlier. I felt shocked. When enquired I came to know that somebody tried to steal the Buddha and in order to protect it they kept the Buddha in the sanctum sanctorum. I saw the dhyana Buddha in the right side of the presiding deity of the temple Muthumariamman. We felt happyn and returned. 

Februaryb 2012

I came to know from a friend that the Buddha which was found near the sanctum sanctorum was found missing. When I planned to go there my elder son Bharath wanted to accompany and came with me.   I went by the Thanjavur-Kumbakonam bus and got down at Darasuram. From there through a town bus we reached Pattisvaram and started walking through Govindakkudi road, telling my son about the experiences I faced during my earlier field trips, searching even each and every small temple. He also expressed his wish to see the Buddha. We reached the temple. I saw place in which the Buddha was kept earlier. Buddha was not found there. Felt shocked I came out and sat in the mandapa.  

 

I searched all the places in the mandapa and found the Buddha there. My son surprised and understood the importance of our trip. I understood that the friend without knowing the shifting of Buddha from one place to another, might have informed so. After seeing the Buddha myself and son got relief and feel happy. 

December  2013

During my trip with Mr Karanthai Jakyakumar, to Tiruppalaitturai, Udayalur, Pazhayarai, Muzhaiyur, and Pandchavanmatheveecharam I went there and photograhed the Buddha.  

14 February 2022

I went there alongwith my friend sculptor Mr Rajasekaran. I was informed that the Kumbabishegam of the temple was held recently. I saw the Buddha in the right side of the front mandapa. Though I came here many times I did not take the photograph of the temple. Now, I photographed the temple, and left with my friend. 

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2023

This Buddha image is documented in the Tamil and English editions of my book (Chola Nattil Bautham,  Pudhu Ezuthu, 2022, p.97), (Buddhism in Chola Nadu,  Pudhu Ezuthu, 2023, p.122).

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Thanks: Kudavayil Balasubramanian, Mr Veeramani, Mr Rajasekaran, and Mr Nagarajan

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தமிழில் வாசிக்க: பௌத்த சுவட்டைத் தேடி: பட்டீஸ்வரம்

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